Destiny, death, and a yodel to boot

“In eternity there is no time, only an instant long enough for a joke.”  Steppenwolf, Hermann Hesse

Look! I didn't lie about ze singing und ze hills!

Don't you hate me?

 

When a house gets torn down here it's a town event. People gather around and watch as this huge monster of a machine with ginormous mechanical jaws and jackhammer nibbles off fragment for fragment of walls and floors. Long, gnarly hairs of rebar twist and bend in every direction in their refusal to be clipped; a modern day Medusa refusing to get her hair cut.

After a summer of working construction, I was curious about how German's build their houses. They, and Austrians as well, build them normally out of huge bricks and concrete laced with rebar. The exception to that rule is the Fachwerkhaus (http://www.baulinks.de/webplugin/2007/i/1527-fachwerkhaus.jpg) made partially out of wood. If I'm correctly informed, and I may not be, the frame of most U.S. American homes is primarily wood. Even if not, I doubt most of our residential structures could be compared in strength to one of concrete and steel.What does that say about us and Europeans? The joke for Germans and Austrians is that they don't have tornadoes or hurricanes, or much at all really to threaten their houses. It bugged me. Why would we build such feeble structures, especially in the face of tornadoes and hurricanes? I think it was Eva that said it was a pilgrim mentality of needing to create shelter quickly in harsh conditions. I suggested that it was the remnant of the Manifest Destiny mentality. Ever westward we go! Or is it the material American Dream? We can always remodel and add on to suit our tastes and match our wealth. I can tell you I don't see much remodeling going on here. Nobody wants to tear down a concrete wall reinforced with steel rebar if they don't have to.  Although the environmentalist in me is drawn to the more sustainable and permanent structure with less waste, the "romantic" in me can't help but love our wooden houses. I love the smell and look of wood. I love that the corners and angles of our houses are as imperfect and obtuse as we are. More so, I often dream of building my own home someday, which is much less possible in a world of concrete.

I've got permanence on the brain today. It was a gray day here in Bad Ischl. Clouds never left their mountain tip homes, and I didn't really want to leave mine, either. Days like these make it easier to look at our feet as we shuffle and drag them. But Bad Ischl was not at rest! Today they had the Kaiser half-marathon, as well as the Tag des Denkmals (day of memorials). I woke up and walked busier streets. People were jogging everywhere, getting warmed up for the race. I could hear the announcer blocks away. The entire town center was blocked off to traffic. I went to the starting point and joined the throng. It was people-watching prime time. There were families with their children and people from all over Austria who'd come to run or watch the race. Announcers did their best to rile the crowd. Half of their talk was about the race, and half was about how great Bad Ischl is. "Not only..." declared one, "is Bad Ischl known for being one of the best organized runs in Austria, but it is definitely one of the friendliest!" As the race started, everyone cheered on every runner. I'm now living in a proud, close-knit community. It's infectious.

I took two tours today: the tour of memorials, and the tour of the cemetery. While I learned that many famous people came here in the first tour (Lehar, Brahms, Franz Josef, etc.) for reasons of inspiration and wellness (spa town, healing salt water), the second tour I found much more fascinating. It's wonderful how stories can be brought out of names and numbers. A man took us around the cemetery, apparently considered by many to be one of the prettiest in Austria, and explained the lives and deaths of the lowly to the aristocratic. We saw how one family lost their three children within six years. We saw the grave for unborn children, visited and decorated by many. At the end he showed us where a general of WWII was buried. This general was ordered by Hitler to go to Spain and help the Fascists there. He made the order to bomb Guernica, which soon after became inspiration to one of the most well known paintings of the western world, Picasso's "Guernica," found in the Prada in Madrid. The copy is hung in the U.N. in New York City as a reminder of the horrors of war. How strange and sadly we are sometimes connected to each other. 

Oh but I won't leave off on such a sad note! I just spent about five amazing days in the beautiful ski resort town of Saalbach Hinterglemm learning what to expect this year, as well as what is expected of me. Happenstance and good luck greeted me there as well. On the way there I left my bag on a bus, had to talk to drivers and get them to drive it back to me, and missed a train and a bus because of one late train. Arriving two hours late, I got a room to myself for the week. Throughout the week I volunteered and was asked to do quite a bit. I was asked to play guitar and lead everyone in a sing-along on the mountain after a hike, I got picked out of the crowd multiple times that night to do different traditional folk dances  and yodel,

 and two girls and I taught a group about folk/country music. At the end of the lesson they had to write their own folk song, which we sang their song for everyone at the talent show that night. I left with friends and the belief that I can be a good teacher.

So my brain's been on permanence lately. Today I woke up and turned knobs to gas lines and pushed buttons to get hot water before getting too nervous about blowing up my house and gave up. Tomorrow I'll wake up, shower cold or not at all, and start my job teaching kids. It's a completely new, unknown adventure. I have no idea what I'll do, but that's not what I'm worried about. Such mystery beckons the questions I've been asking myself for a while. How do I make myself into a strong, stable man? How do I leave a lasting impact on the people and places around me? How can I influence these kids in a meaningful way? I want meaningful, lasting relationships. I'm not just here to visit. I want everything I build to be worthy and lasting.

I'm not worried or scared. My hands only tremble because they yearn to grasp.

“I will no longer mutilate and destroy myself in order to find a secret behind the ruins.” Hermann Hesse

German word(s)/phrase of the week: Grüß Gott
Everybody says it round these parts. Pronunciation: http://www.dict.cc/?s=gr%C3%BC%C3%9F+gott
Click on the little speaker on the right edge of the right-hand column

Fact of the week: Meaning of Grüß Gott. Read it! It's really interesting!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gr%C3%BC%C3%9F_Gott

Preview for next week: The tyranny of Dan as teacher begins!!! ALSO: my house!

Keep it real, y'all.
 

My bed's in a bathroom

 “I am much inclined to live from my rucksack, and let my trousers fray as they like.” Hermann Hesse

WARNING TO GRANDPARENTS and family: this entry contains content regarding hitchhiking and trusting strangers. They were some of the best experiences, though!

Julia picked me up on a Wednesday at the airport, after waiting for about 45 minutes for me to sort out a missing baggage situation. Julia is best friend, almost sister, and sometimes mother to me. In the passenger seat of her car waited a beer and pretzel. I almost cried; such a touching, heartfelt present. I was in my other home, again!

In those couple of days I stayed with her and her boyfriend/my friend, Dominik, she managed to make my two favorite meals: Brotzeit and Schweinebraten (look at pictures on google), as well as take me to a beautiful lake.

On Friday I took a Mitfahrgelegenheit (a safer and very practical form of hitchhiking through online profiles) to a town called Radolfzell next to Lake Constance on the border with Switzerland. There awaited Hubertus, his family, his brother's girlfriend Amelie, and his boss/friend Eva and her husband Bernt. Hubertus is my other brother, and as such I feel myself very much a member of his family. His family embraces me as brother/son, as well.

I found myself in the house of Hermann Hesse; the first and only(?) he ever built. It was a surprise that I was staying in the house of one of the most famous German authors, as well as my personal favorite. Eva and Bernt had bought the house in 2003 to save it from certain destruction by the city, and brought it back to its original condition. It is a beautiful three-story house with a paradise for a garden that Eva, as botanist, keeps. We often sat all together on the terrace on the second floor, overlooking the garden and lake, to dinner with a glass of wine or bottle of beer.

Much happened in the week I was there. I became good friends with Eva and Bernt, and had countless discussions and heart-to-hearts with Hubertus, his brother Burchart, his mother Oriana, his father Wolfgang, Eva, Bernt, and Hubertus' girlfriend Anais (she showed up later in the week). On the third day I was there, we hosted over 600 guests for the Tag des offenen Denkmals (Day of Memorials opened to the public). By the end of the day, after trying to instruct hundreds of guests about entering the house, or telling the older man not to touch the ancient oven, I had rediscovered that the nicest of people can also be the most stupid. I gave up on humanity again and ensured my coffee-hangover fate with my 15th coffee of the day.

At dinner one night we came to the topic, as often happen with an American amidst a group of Europeans, of guns. In Germany it is straight up illegal to own a gun without a permit, and there is sure as heck no right to carry a concealed weapon. Carrying certain knives is even forbidden. Most Germans feel safe in knowing this, and they are appalled that some U.S. Americans could feel the exact opposite. I've had many arguments with all kinds of Europeans about this, not to mention Americans. Mostly, I just try to reassure them that every one of us isn't carrying a gun, and that most people I know don't own guns (granted I've been in a liberal arts college for four years). I was delighted to finally hear something new, though, and it came from Hubertus' father, Wolfgang. "Both sides are fooling themselves." he asserted, "Many Americans labor under the delusion that their guns will keep them safe, and many Germans labor just as heavily under the delusion that their government will protect them. The truth is that we are not safe." I tried to say "WORD," but nobody seemed to understand...

While there I helped make marmalade for my first time. We made 17 jars  out of elder berries, pineapple, and lemon grass, and it was delicious. I swam in Lake Constance and took my first ferry. I picked delicious, succulent Americano grapes from the vine in her garden. Having eaten a delicious meal and had two beers, I creatively told my waitress, "Es war so lecker, ich könnte vom Glück kotzen!" (It was so delicious I could puke from happiness!). Suffice it to say sarcasm is often an unwelcome guest, especially when it was not intended. FAILURE. Note to self: puke is a dangerous word. Other note to self: you're still not that good at German.

From there I took the train to Eichstätt. From the first moment I saw the fortress looming on the hill I couldn't stop smiling. Beautiful weather welcomed me, and I nearly skipped through the streets in pure ecstasy at being back in my home. While there I stayed with two friends Lisa and Gesa, had yet more heartfelt discussions with them, and got fed delicious meals by them. We took strolls on the hill, through the city, and along the river with a cone of my favorite hazelnut ice cream in hand. I even got to do my favorite activity: kneippen! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yuqv0j-vJoI. First 30 seconds (they don't even do it right).

After missing the train twice to Ingolstadt to visit my friend Tanja, I hitchhiked for the first time in my life. I got lucky and a wonderful couple with a cute two year old daughter picked me up and asked me my life story on the 30 minute drive. At Tanja's house I got fed my favorite meal, Schweienbraten, for the second time! We took a day trip to Regensburg to see Julia run a 10k for her best time. I'd been there five years ago and saw a bird show in the castle on the hill with Katharina and her family. My last night we went Salsa and Bachata dancing, where Tanja taught me more (she's a great dancer), and I showed her what I'd learned.

After a few more relaxing days with Julia, and a great evening with Katharina and her family, I took the train to Bad Ischl. Driving through Salzburg and the Salzkammergut region, I couldn't help but laugh in the train. I passed scenes like this (I encourage you to mute your speakers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdKmvmbM3jg

Until the day before I left for Bad Ischl, I had no earthly idea where I would live here. The day before I left, I finally got a call from Walter, whom I'd emailed about renting a room in a house he leased. He offered to pick me up from the train station and show me the house himself. At the train station, I asked Paul Newman's doppelgänger if he was Walter. He was not. The real Walter, once having found me, helped me find the hostel, helped me take my baggage in and find a room, and then showed me the house. He even drove me around the city a little and pointed out the important landmarks.

Originally having answered that they had no rooms left in the hostel, they agreed to put me up in their "overfill room" for the night. It was a bathroom. The sink was over my bed, and a toilet was two feet away from my bed. I loved it! It felt like the perfect embodiment of the traveling spirit. When I checked out this morning, I joked about how great it was to have a toilet so nearby, and the desk clerk joked back that I wasn't supposed to use it. I laughed and said of course not. Ha! ha....

I leave today for an orientation week in Saalbach Hinterglemm. I know I don't deserve everything that's falling in my lap, but I guess that means I have to make even more out of the experience.

“I have always believed, and I still believe, that whatever good or bad fortune may come our way we can always give it meaning and transform it into something of value.” Hermann Hesse

Word(s)/phrase of the week: Doppelgänger 

background: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doppelg%C3%A4nger

pronunciation:  http://www.dict.cc/?s=Doppelg%C3%A4nger   Click on the little speaker icon next to the German word in the right column

Fact of the week: meaning of Bad Ischl

My father might tell you that it's called "Bad" because it was bad of me to come here (ha! he's sooo funny), but the word "Bad" refers to baths. This town is known as a Kurstadt, or spa town. "Ischl" refers to one of the rivers that runs through town, called the Ischl. (shout out to Hilary, who asked what it meant)

Preview for next week: I have no idea! That's the fun part.

P.S. sorry for the long entry. They should be shorter from now on.

P.P.S. pictures coming soon

LOVE

omg omg omg omg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

O.M.G. I'm in paradise!! (omg translation : oh my gosh!!) I'm here, everybody. I'm in Bad Ischl, Austria where I'll be for the next year...or the rest of my life!! JOKE, family. This place, though, this city is stunningly, breathtakingly beautiful. So I thought I'd be living in the outer foothills of the Alps, but it turns out that I really am in the alps. The whole town is surrounded by small mountains. I spent the day laughing at my luck. It's fascinatingly simple what Europeans do with nature. They're greedy with their beauty. "Oh, there's a small hill of an island in the middle of that lake? There I shall build my castle." I imagine it goes about like that. It's unfair. I grew up in Tulsa, and all we had to work with there was a dirty river, really. It's hard not to hate people who get to live in this wonder. Oh wait, I get to do that for a year. Let's all hate me, too.

Before I get any further, quick background. Click on the links:
Here's where I am geographically
http://maps.google.at/maps?q=bad+ischl&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=de&sa=N&tab=wl
As you zoom out you'll see that I'm about 45 minutes from Salzburg, and a couple of hours from Vienna and Munich. I'm in the region of Upper Austria, about an hour from the border to Germany.
Below are the best pictures I could find, but of course they don't do the trick.
http://harmonyhouse.at/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Bad-Ischl-austria-615544_1024_768.jpg
http://www.eichingerbauer.at/images/content/big/bad_ischl.jpg

So I want this entry to be a kind of legend, or guide for you. I hope it will give you some tools to imagine my surroundings better. The very basics: Austria is a country. It is not Australia, and as you'll see in the map it is south of Germany, which is one of the few geographical facts relevant to me at this point. I encourage you to check out its history, as it was once the center of a powerful empire. They speak German all over the country, albeit in different accents and dialects that are hard to understand even for some native Germans. The region I'm in, Upper Austria, shares a common linguistic history with the German state it borders to the north, Bavaria. I was in Bavaria a little more than one year ago for my year abroad in the town of Eichstaett. Many of the people in Bavaria speak Bavarian, and Bavarian can range from an accent to a full out dialect with different words and sentence constructions. For a German from northern Germany whose had little exposure to the dialect, it can be very hard to understand.

To me: Many have asked me how well I speak and understand German. You can say I speak it fluently, but that's honestly a pretty inexact description. I finally thought of an apt metaphor to give you an idea of my German speaking and comprehension abilities. Imagine a 1000 piece puzzle of some German castle (maybe Neuschwanstein, the most famous). In the middle is the castle on a hill, below are trees, and above is the sky. About a third is trees, a third is sky, and a third is castle. The castle goes like a breeze, because every contour is so remarkable, but the sky and trees are nearly impossible. There's no way to look at a piece with tens of miniscule leaves, or twenty shades of white to blue, and fit them by sight. No, you have to painstakingly try each peace to similarly colored ones. There's about 30 pieces left in the puzzle. That's where my German is at. You see the castle perfectly, and you see most of the trees and sky. From a distance you might think the puzzle is finished. Some German's can't tell I'm not German until they've spoken to me for a few minutes. I'm not trying to brag. I think it's a fair depiction. Now imagine how many other puzzles there are: tanks, horses, a car, a map of a continent, Lord of the Rings, etc. I still have to put all those together. I can do everyday, colloquial German quite well, but have someone talk to me with many religious, literary, technical, military, etc. concepts and I'll be lost. The accent here is very similar to Bavarian, and one of my best friends is Bavarian, so I can understand the people here pretty well.

Well I think that's enough. If you got through this I think it will enrich other entries for you. I hope to get a stable enough life going here to write an entry once a week. I'll make it worthwhile for you.

Dan

P.S. you're a fool, a FOOOOL, if you have the chance to visit me and you don't. Much love

Fact of the week: Vienna (capitol of Austria) is one of the spy capitols of the world! http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/10/world/europe/10vienna.html

German word(s)/phrase of the week: Bad Ischl
pronunciation: Bah like the sheep, bah-d. Isch like sheepish, and lll with your tongue to your bottom gums. bahd ish-l. If we talk I might ask you to try and pronounce it. Be vewy vewy cawefol...

Topic of the next entry: My travels in Germany for the last few weeks
Herman Hesse, the German who watched Jerry Springer, throwing up, hitchhiking, and American Manifest Destiny. Stay tuned...